An Invitation to Dinner by R.C. Bruckner-Bock

An Invitation to Dinner

by
R.C. Bruckner-Bock

ALFORNO, a first class ticket to Tuscany
1654 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook, 860-399-4166
www.alforno.net

Cuisine ***
Service ***
Ambiance **
Price Range $$
Wine Menu: ****, $*
Hours Sunday-Thursday, noon to 9 pm; Fri-Sat noon to 10 pm

Food critics often disagree with published promo-write ups. After reading unwavering glowing reviews of a restaurant, I wondered why, with the same persistent regularity, I am the unlucky one being served a hockey-puck filet, a soggy beef Wellington, or fish that announces its arrival long before it’s placed in front of me. And why is it that often the only one who noticed that the French cuisine is French in description only is I? Yet sometimes I get my reward. Not when my predictions for failure proved accurate which makes me sad, not proud; but when my assessment of excellence has been verified. The public finally caught up with me: Zagat 2008 lists Alforno as one of America’s top 1000 restaurants!

Benny’s Plaza hardly resembles the Piazza dei Miracoli, base of the Torre Pendente in Pisa. There is no leaning tower here, but this is where I found my culinary miracle. Renaissance-inspired ceramics, hand painted in traditional classic patterns, ultra modern light fixtures dropped from a ceiling shrouded in billowing fabric resembling sails, and vibrant graphics painted on glass-panels link history to neoteric Italian design. The Leitmotif, two black lines visually connecting ‘a-l-f-o-r-n-o’ via each brilliant square, guides the eye along banquettes to the pizza oven set into red brick. The aroma of freshly baked ciabatta breads is testimony to having arrived in a Tuscan Trattoria. So is the precious selection of wines, resting in wooden racks behind the wine-bar where lively debates ensue over which is the best biga to bake the perfect loaf of slipper-bread. The starter secret lies in ratios between flour, yeast and water and technique of preparation. At Alforno they have it down pat.

The wine list, modest only in price, confirms intimate knowledge about growth characteristics here and abroad. Spirited treasures, mellow to robust, from Tuscany and Piedmont are among the reds; Umbrian Orvieto, Soave Classico from Veneto, and the ‘gray grapes’ from Friuli are sprightly whites with staying power, perfect compliments to the appropriate menu item. A carefully chosen reserve collection rivals that of many a renowned dinner house and any wine featured on the specials menu is often a rare find.

First courses and salads (6.50-10.95) Soups are made from deeply rich stocks making for an unusually lusty experience. Bruschettas, made with toothsome home-baked ciabatta should never be missed. Salads are carefully chosen compositions of complementing ingredients enhanced by appropriate vinaigrettes designed to bring out the best of each combination. Creamy textured plump triangles of mozzarella, their coat of panko crumbs (Japanese wheat-bread crumbs resembling grated coconut) fried to golden crispness are laced with Alforno’s Tuscan tomato sauce, a perfect liaison of slight acidity and mellow sweetness. Shrimp scampi, a delicacy heightened by fine herbs and wine, come sautéed in butter with fresh tomato and a touch of garlic. The kitchen’s treatment of Mexican white shrimp attests to respectful understanding of their quality. For a main course they are pan seared, then carefully calibrated in a sauté with grape tomatoes, garlic and a silky shrimp-lobster reduction. Spooned over house-crafted ribbons of pappardelle, (the beloved frilly-edged ribbon-pasta of Northern Italy) who’s name originates from pappare, meaning ’gobble up’, will need no such encouragement. After being marinated in garlic, oregano and thyme these scampi are re-born atop of pizza.

Pizzas ($15.95-22.50) In the late 1800’s, Rafaelle Esposito of Napoli created pizza Margherita for the Queen. He used red tomatoes, white mozzarella and green basil representing Italy’s Tricolore. Margherita elevated this peasant bread to favorite status among royalty and pizza became a cultural commodity. Alforno elevated the thin crusted Tuscans to a perfection not easily found elsewhere. Whether Margherita, or Bianca a la romana with caramelized onion, European bacon, and cheeses, or grilled asparagus with sweet onion, herbs and garlic, one must remember that Tuscans top their pizzas sparingly to maximize the aroma of each garnish and to allow the robust flavor of the crust to fully impact the senses. With pizza having gone global centuries ago, Americanized versions can be composed by selecting savory additions from the menu.

Main Courses (12.95-22.95) Have you been yearning for cannelloni Florentine? Fine veal-chicken forcemeat, paired with shallot-sautéed spinach, rolled into crespelle, the featherweight Italian crêpe, then ladled up with silken béchamel and Tuscan tomato sauce, is a gourmands dream come true. Continued devotion to quality and careful adherence to technique is demonstrated by la cucina’s besciamella (béchamel), the sauce that guarantees Alforno’s luxuriously velvety lasagna.

The featured specials menu (18.95-20.95 typical) must be studied carefully for seasonal delicacies. Ethereal baked zucchini blossoms are a culinary triumph here. Butternut squash tortellini, ricotta squash purée encased in transparent ravioli-wraps touched up with truffle butter, is elegant decadence. Tuscan peasant food is illustrated in braised pork shank osso bucco di Maiale. Veal or chicken cutlets can be Marsala, picatta, parmigiana., or Milanese. Well designed frequent menu changes promote dining often without boredom. Featured wine selections to complement the specials menu tend to be exciting and prompt queries with my wine merchant.

Desserts are another tour-de-force. The featured amaretto bread pudding made from the house-baked gutsy ciabatta topped with eggnog ice-cream and whipped cream was priceless! Another day my tears of happiness mingled with Lacrima Christi’s in my glass while I indulged in homemade cannoli. The crackling crispness, owed to last minute assembly of shell and silken ricotta-cream, became heavenly finger food. If treated with a fork, it would have bounced right off my plate!

**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor
$$$$ over $75; $$$ over $50; $$ over $25; $ under $25; $* exceptional value;