Brick walls with patina and Toulouse-Lautrec fashioned murals illustrate the legendary ‘joie de vivre’ of the French bourgeoisie (the middle class).Designed with obvious care, the décor suggests that dinner hours will be wrapped in casual comfort. Illuminated by Dutch chandeliers and spots, living-flower-vases and rose-colored linen napkins accent gleaming tables. Yet, Jane Avril’s high kicking Can-Can steps reminding of bawdy nights at the Moulin Rouge are rendered ineffective against an inexplicable gloomy ambiance. Perhaps a chronically lethargic service might account for the dour overcast under high ceilings.
The perfection of Gougères (small puff pastry) offered as amuse-bouche (lit. amuse-mouth;appetizer) was slightly marred by chill. Still, courtesy of a skilled baker they retained their exterior crunch, a bold Gruyère presence and an airy center. While wondering what filibuster might be the delay of getting drinks from a quiet bar this time, we asked for more gougeres to help pass the time. They arrived readily but shorted for one person. Perusing the familiar menu confirmed that like the service, it has not changed much since opening day in January 2008.
So what! It is here where one can find a palate rousing rendition of frog legs à la Grenobloise under Appetizers ($8-12). The grenouille are lightly dredged in flour, sautéed in brown butter with lemon, capers and parsley. The flawless preparation made my spirits soar to the ceiling’s apex. The tasty crab cakes, made with crab and not with only bread, were replaced by Brandade de Morue. The border city Nimes located between Provence and Languedoc claims the origin of brandade; here it is often served with truffles. A traditional staple in the South of France since the late 1700’s, salt-cod (morue=codfish) is worked into a thick paste (brandade) with olive oil, garlic and milk. Potato purée might be added for substance. This chef’s brandade cake comes with parsley cream, tangy with lemon, adding sparkling contrast to the creamy classic. Escargot (snails) Bourguignon, moule mariniére (PEI mussels) and a bacon leek tart are other Bistro classics not to be missed. Grilled sea scallops in company of roasted red pepper sauce and the assorted smoked fishes have been replaced by smoked salmon served with a potato pancake and a dab of crème frâiche.
Crisp, unpretentious Salads in vinaigrette and Soups ($6-11) are pleasant and uncomplicated. Onion soup à la Normande thickened with flour, chicken-stock and cream is the traditional version from Normandy where cream is used lavishly, and onion soup often receives a healthy infusion of calvados or apple cider. This kitchen’s rendition is velvety and satisfying. Lobster Bisque was a surprise. Fluid broth of enticing fragrance was obtained without a spec of lobster meat in sight. Amazing!
Entrées ($20-27) in Bistro language mean the dishes
preceding the roast, usually fish, or what the Italian’s call primi
piatti (lit.first plate). We have adapted entrée to mean main course;
at du Glace neatly executed dishes evidence dedication to freshness and care
in preparation. Grilled Salmon with pommes paille (straw
potatoes) was actually served with pommes frites (French
fries). Succulent pink fish, wrapped in a fresh ocean breeze came tender as
if poached. Contrasted by a bucolic red-wine sauce (Irouléguy perhaps?)
this offering triumphed! The calf’s liver, highlighted by a creamy bacon
sauce, with both meaty slices seared to preserve rosy centers, sent the gourmet
beside me into ecstasy. A nicely browned slab of gratin pommes dauphinoise (sliced
potatoes baked with cream and cheese) sharing the plate inspired a farewell
toast to nouvelle cuisine. Sweetbreads, difficult to find, are promised to
be back on menu soon. In France ‘Coq au Vin’ is made with rooster;
I suspect here it is chicken or the clientele would readily complain. Cassoulet,
the winter staple of white beans with duck confit may be on menu year around,
as both hardy dishes are traditional bistro fair. Steaks are NY Sirloin served
with crisp frites or prepared special ‘chef’s whim’ of the
day. Bistro-filet marinated in Burgundy and malty Belgian beer was an acutely
satisfying preparation and filet mignon with sea scallops and red wine sauce
was a culinary improvisation that worked well.
Side Dishes ($5, half orders $3) offered are creamed spinach
or pommes frites or paille. Gone are the over–the-top carrots Vichy,
carrots cooked in Vichy water then glazed and sprinkled with parsley, but I
long for the flounder à la meunière (lit. miller’s
wife) and I hope that when springtime-sorrel will be growing the chef will
again offer his well conceived scaloppini of salmon dabbled with tangy sorrel
sauce. Perhaps then the creative forces in the kitchen will also bring back
their earthy leek and mushroom tarts.
Finishing touches to the timeless recipes are few but very fine desserts ($6-7.50). Plated atop a painted grid of Schlag (whipped cream) the chocolate espresso truffle torte mirrored the offerings of Viennese sugar bakers when kings and emperors ruled Austria. Warm apples layered on mille-feuille (thousand-leaf) flaky puff pastry are pleasantly tart with vanilla ice cream. The fruit tart ‘du jour’ (of this day) came dressed in strawberry purée while the deep aroma of a generous portion of espresso brought to conclusion a most enjoyable dining experience.
One of the various explanations about the origin of the Bistro is that the Bistrot originated in Paris, meaning ‘small restaurant’. Menus chalked onto blackboards typically consisted of braised meats, stews that would keep over a few days, and one-pot preparations such as boeuf bourguignonne. Bistro patrons expected gutsy uncomplicated food rooted in tradition from the days when the goose breast was reserved for the estate owners and the liver, considered mere offal, was served to the migrant workers. How some things change! Today the foie gras is precious and more readily available than a goose breast. Today’s Bistro patrons may not necessarily be looking for professional service, but along with skillfully prepared and modestly priced food, they expect more attentive bonhomie (good natured affable manner) then was perceived at any of my visits. Casual hospitality and service does not translate to indifference.
**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor