An Invitation to Dinner
by
R.C. Bruckner-Bock
CABO Tequila Grill
4 Water Street, Chester
860-526-8277
www.cabotequilagrill.com
Cuisine **
Service **
Ambiance *
Price Range $$
Wine Menu: Reds & Whites from Argentina, Chile, Spain, California $23-39; also per glass $7-10
Hours: Tue-Thu 5-9.30pm; Fri & Sat 5-10pm; Sunday 4-9.00pm

Bobby Flay of Tex-Mex fame should pay attention. Noted absenteeism from his NYC Mesa Grill and his too many other kitchens predict decline in popularity. Promoting Hellmann’s mayonnaise with non-descript recipes on late night TV is not helping. But who cares! I found spirited American Southwestern cuisine closer to home. CABO reflects casual no-nonsense stability like its granite façade. Inside, window-trims the color of a Mexican sun shine on bare wood tables. A wrought iron creature I can’t identify looms darkly from terra-cotta-cinnamon walls. The beast can’t frighten me, especially not after a few expertly blended Tequila cocktails.

Tequila Grill indicates that this popular elixir is to underscore the kitchen’s lively cuisine. Classified by type and regions, Tequila $4.50-12.75 is made exclusively from the blue Agave plant. TequilaBlanco’ (white) is un-aged. ‘Reposado’, has rested 2 months in oak barrels and Tequila ‘Añejo’ (old, vintage) could be aged 7 years. Distinctly smoky Mezcal, distilled from a variety of agaves is often served as shots. Devotees will down it through a slice of salted lime between their teeth, others insist to sip it pure or alternate with Sangrita (a mix of lime, orange and tomato juices, onion, hot chilies and salt this Mexican aperitif resembles a spicy Bloody Mary).
 
Appetizers $7.95-10.95. Testing soups and sauces is usually a quick study of a chef’s abilities and the care given to the process. In absence of soups, here moles and condiments testify to quality ingredients and freshness. Creamy avocado at perfect ripeness becomes addictive Guacamole without soggy winter tomato, sweetness intensified by cilantro, lime, a hint of cumin and cayenne. Smoky pork, jack cheese dotted with scallions and the mild heat of Poblanos are the soul of a BBQ Pork Quesadilla. Accompanied by roasted jalapeño salsa and chipotle-cream (smoke-dried jalapeño) the dish promises an exciting journey through the menu. Killer Nachos are testimony that contrasting ingredients assembled with culinary skill are a splendid dish. Jack cheese (mild), Colby (semi hard, died orange like cheddar) and queso fresco (cheese, fresh; white, soft, whole milk) will counter the heat of fresh jalapeños. Pico de gallo (rooster’s beak) widely known as main ingredient for tacos or fajitas, compliments mellow refried beans. Deviating by region, this condiment typically includes chopped fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onion and Serrano peppers which are drizzled with lemon or lime juices, herbed with cilantro and spiced with salty chili powder. Topped with sour cream and guacamole Killer Nachos can expand to yet another dimension by adding grilled chicken or Chorizo sausage. I suggest another Tequila to assist with the demolition of this hearty assortment.
 
Salads $4.95-10.95 are house-greens accented with olives and cheese in a sprightly lime vinaigrette; tantalizing Shrimp and Avocado where pink grapefruit and red peppers are tossed with toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) in a zippy pomegranate vinaigrette or another extravaganza named CABO Chopped Salad in smooth buttermilk-cilantro dressing, re-engaging some of the players from the Killer Nacho plate plus black beans and add-ons of grilled chicken, steak or shrimp.
 
Toothsome Tacos $12.95-14.95 served soft support their savory garnishes without cracks or spills. On a bed of nutty corn texture rest grilled chicken, pulled pork or grilled steak, accompanied by the full tour de force from the kitchen, repeating the Killer assemblage with the addition of sofrito rice and refreshingly crisp slaw. I would be amiss in not drawing attention to the ‘sofrito’ (soffritto= sautéed; orig.Italian). In Spain Sofrito is a fragrant sauce made from finely chopped vegetables sautéed with onions, garlic and peppers to which rice is added, resulting in delectable, non-greasy ‘fried rice’.
 
Having difficulty deciding which Enchiladas & Burritos $9.95- 12.95 should be awarded favorite status, I gave up. I ate my way through the lot and started over. I suggest you follow suit.

Another lusty assault on any pleasure seeking palate are Entrées $12.95-18.95. Chicken Enchiladas are swathed in well executed ancho (mild chile-sauce) and mole negro (black sauce made with chocolate). Hangar Steak plated with grilled portabellas and paprika fries surprised with intense smoky accents heightened by chimichurri. Olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, parsley, oregano or thyme, garlic, salt and a few drops of hot sauce are ingredients for this Argentine marinade for grilled meats. Vegetable Tostata represents balanced fillers inside layered precision, a neat conspiracy between chef, plater and server. Carnitas, introduces a Mexican technique where extremely slow cooked meat is braised, then shredded and fried in lard to obtain a crisp outside, while preserving a succulent interior. To no surprise, here it’s done perfectly with pork.

A brownie-shaped large slab of chocolate intensity laced with condensed milk-foam and spiced with cinnamon was Dessert $5.95 dotted with freshly whipped cream.

I always depart without having checked if their Mezcal comes with white, red or no worms. I will ask next time but make no promise to write about it.
**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor
$$$$ over $75; $$$ over $50; $$ over $25; $ under $25; $* exceptional value;
Archive
IBIZA Resturant | Bistro du Glace, Deep River | Max Downtown, Hartford | Holidays in Manhattan | Harbour Seal Family Grille | Donovan's Reef | Leon's | CABO Tequila Grill | Log Cabin, Clinton | Café Allegre, Madison | Café Routier, Westbrook | Oyster Bar, Old Saybrook | Alforno, Old Saybrook | Sage American Grill, Chester
© R.C. Bruckner-Bock and KillingworthToday.com. The opinions expressed in Invitation to Dinner are solely those of the reviewer. Reviews are provided for entertainment and educational purposes only. KillingworthToday.com and its publisher PurpleDog Web Productions are not responsible for errors, omissions or information or actions contained on linked sites.