An Invitation to Dinner by R.C. Bruckner-Bock

An Invitation to Dinner

by
R.C. Bruckner-Bock

Café Allegre
725 Boston Post Road, Madison, 203-245-7773
www.allegrecafe.com

Cuisine **
Service **
Ambiance ***
Price Range $$$
Wine Menu: ample range in product and price; good selections by the glass; excellent bar drinks
Hours: Tue-Thu 5.30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5.30-11pm; Sunday 1-9pm

Cherry blossoms stir memories of brightly colored cheer in terracotta pots framing the entrance. Sipping aperitivo al fresco on a flower-scented terrace is an Italian romance. Lofty Grecian columns guard a blissful union between an ancient history and that of the Inn at Lafayette. The Campagnia is known for savory peasant dishes embracing seasonal harvests in home-style cooking. Passionate about his cucina, the chef balances family recipes from his home town Benevento with Neapolitan classics and novello Italian-American.

The large bar abuzz with happy locals, packed dining-rooms and simultaneous parties are no challenge for the unflappable friendly staff. This operation glides along like Italy’s ‘Treno Alto Velocitô’, smooth, quiet, and without ripples. Alabaster fixtures beam tranquility onto tables napped in white. Floral Chintz and potted palms accent casual elegance, promising relaxed enjoyment.

Antipasti (7.95-12.95) Pane Cotto, a savory olive oil pasticcio of cannelloni beans, escarole and freselle (bagle-shaped wheat bread) was baked golden. Folios of air-dried Bresaola e fior di latte served with mozzarella ‘flowers’ are simple perfection. Beneath excessive generosity of Sunday sauce and a sumptuous ricotta filling which smothered the delicate eggplant, the Rollatini di Melanzone lacked crispness. Chicken Livers Marsala, a special one evening, was outstanding. Caramelized onions and plump livers sautéed to pink perfection were sauced with the fortified Sicilian wine.

Salads (7.95-8.95) include an exceptional Caesar, crisp romaine augmented with garlic saturated croutons-cubes, or Tuscan with gorgonzola, walnuts, dried cranberries doused with balsamic and EVOO. Greens and select vegetables dressed in zippy lemon-cream vinaigrette are the house specialty.

Soups (6.95-7.95): Whereas some cooks produce bisque-pudding, this kitchen consistently offers fine textured sherry bisque brimming with hunks of lobster. Stracciatella Fiorentina (stracciatella =rags; Fiorentina designating spinach) is a fragrant egg-drop chicken soup. Escarole and cannelini beans infused with olive oil and garlic, will satisfy any craving for robust peasant food.

Primi Piatti (14.95-22.95) most always a pasta or risotto, are served before Piatti Secondi, the second or main course. Bring a healthy appetite and don’t miss the Primi! The gleaming kitchen turns out ‘al dente’ pastas with creative versatility. The players in vegetarian Primavera change with the season. Paglia e Fieno, ‘Straw and Hay’, white and green pasta is irresistible in rich Alfredo sauce. Penne ‘Sunday’, a family recipe without frills, is just plain wonderful as is the seafood Arborio risotto, where lusty frutti di mare frolic in tomato broth. Chicken Siciliano con Gnocchi brings joy to chicken-breast enthusiasts under the Secondi (17.95-24.95) menu. Sautéed and mingled with cherry peppers & gnocchi in a piquant wine sauce, the chicken remains tender. Herbed ‘Aqua Pazza’ ‘crazy water Tilapia’ floats atop of capellini in company of cherry tomatoes, leeks and capers. Capellini with cubed Branzino disappointed. A fine fin fish, sautéed intact with teammates plated side by side would elevate this dish. A robust oxtail ragoût over Bucatini, (thick tubular spaghetti) drenched in a earthy tomato sauce was outrageously satisfying.

Piatti del Giorno (daily plates 16.95-18.95), as traditional in trattorias and ristorantes are offered from Tuesday through Sunday. The new Prix Fixe Menu @ $25.00 inclusive of house salad, three Entrée choices (chicken, fish or veal) with dessert, coffee or tea boosts menu choices.

Leisurely indulgence between menu and specials usually forces me to skip Dessert. I abandon NY cheesecake, carrot cake, Cannoli, Tartufo, or chocolate mousse cake in favor of an excellent espresso with or without grappa or sambucco.

Note should be made about the chef’s Three Sauces. Herb infused and light, ‘Sunday Sauce’ has been passed down through generations. Nonna’s secret, Sunday’s tradition, remains the chef’s favorite. ‘Fra Diavolo’ owes its subtle heat to crushed pepperoncinos and the ‘Cappriccioso’, true to its name, is a lively marinara type with San Marzano plum tomatoes, herbs, capers and VOO. The sauces and many menu selections are waiting and ‘ready to go’ at Allegre Gourmet Express, 670 Boston Post Road Phone: 203-245-0744 Hours 11.00 am – 7.00 pm Monday thru Friday. Buon Appetito!

**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor
$$$$ over $75; $$$ over $50; $$ over $25; $ under $25; $* exceptional value;