Routier’s menu was the trailblazer that many rushed to copy. Divided
into ‘Regional, Seasonal and Specialties of the House’,
a brilliant concept, it resembles the French ‘carte’, not a prix
fixe, multi-course, no-options ‘menu’. Three starters and main
courses per ‘carte’ plus frequent verbal additions, equate to
multiple crossover selection, essentially complementing this classic Bistro
fare.
House Specialties ($6–28) include flawless plump moules
marinière awash in fragrant wine-liquor scented with saffron and garlic.
Steak, juicy N.Y. strip with mustard butter, or robust hanger steak (onglet,
a Frenchman’s dream!) topped with hotel butter, come with the best frites
this side of the Atlantic. Thick slices of Mom’s meat loaf, well textured
mashed potatoes ladled with rich demi-glace in company of crisp green beans
are nostalgic comfort. Many a Mom will want that recipe!
Salads ($6-14) are smartly conceived assemblies interchangeable across each menu. Endive and arugula greens, drizzled with sherry vinaigrette are tossed with apples, Gorgonzola and toasted walnuts. This wedding between similar greens and ‘nutty’ gorgonzola with walnuts blessed by apple crunch is another example of this kitchen’s mastery to engage foods’ complexities to the full extent of individual characteristics. Roasted red and golden beets are joined by duck confit, goat cheese and pistachios, their piquant attributes augmented by nut-oil vinaigrette.
Inspired by harvests and quality products from trusted purveyors of many
years, the Seasonal Menu ($6-27)
is influenced by the kitchen’s deft approach to processing fresh ingredients
under the principle standards of haute cuisine. “Chicken and Dumplings” is
a humble understatement for a voluptuous fricassée. Chicken cooked
to resilient tenderness with delicately toothsome house-made gnocchi, smoky
bacon, sweet pearl onions and mushrooms is bathing in a silken broth subtly
flavored with a hint of anise from tarragon. Sea-scallops sautéed,
served Paella style in saffron-chorizo risotto with little neck clams and
an assemblage of vegetables are another exiting dish.
This kitchen’s culinary journeys through the western hemisphere have
introduced to us foods of varied ethnicity. The Regional Menu ($10-36), recently
featured haddock chowder and wild mussels under ‘Bar Harbor Maine’.
Ocean-scented haddock accented with delicately gamy mussels was set afloat
in satiny fish-broth the color of snow. Studded with bits of salt pork, then
teased into perfection by minced onion, celery and thyme, it was to die for!
With luck, this dish will re-surface under a new heading; it has happened
before. Presently we visit Gascony with its robust, highly
seasoned, southwestern French cuisine. Known for its noble brandy ‘Armagnac’ and
a fondness for migratory songbirds, French connoisseurs say that ‘Gascogne’ surpasses
all matters of gastronomy in reputation. So does Café Routier, but
I am happy that here they are not serving ortolan-salmi (bunting-stew) and
are sticking to terrine foie gras ($18). A luxury item here as well as abroad,
it’s worth every penny per tasty morsel. Delicately scented slices of
velvety pâté are complemented by crisply blanched haricot verts
sitting on tufts of mâche drizzled with frisky truffle-vinaigrette.
Distinctively nutty mâche echoes the apple-pignoli toast, a house creation,
taking toast bits to a higher sphere. Cassoulet Toulousain, the mélange
of white beans with duck and pork confits and piquant garlic sausage is simply
terrific and sautéed duck breast, served to requested doneness, is
pink perfection. Seasoned with quatre epices (four spices of equal parts;
white peppercorns, cloves, nutmeg and ginger crushed to powder), the duck
is presented stacked over lusty potato-leek gratin on a bed of baby spinach.
I suggest plating the performers side by side to guarantee spinach vitality.
Frequent changes warrant condensed explanation of the Lounge menu ($6-14). Fashioned after Spanish tradition, tapas represent global gastronomic tastes. Imaginative, savory and affordable, they invite to lingering cocktail hours and light dinners. Here you can also get the beefiest, juiciest most satisfying hamburger and great beer on tap!
Desserts ($6-9) can be a sorbet trio painted with raspberry coulis (purée or thick sauce) or densely rich turtle cake attended by vanilla ice-cream suffocating happily under caramel sauce studded with candied pecans or a cobbler made with seasonal fruits. The competence and creative abilities of the pastry chef continue to please and amaze.
When fanciful nonsense masquerading as creativity along with wildly unrestrained fusion cooking and high-rise-structure-plating invaded many kitchens, the art of classic cooking was nearly lost. Luckily, since 1996, for 13 years, the leading force in Café Routier’s kitchen stayed the course. A profound understanding for the integrity and personality of a dish, quality of ingredients and respect for the disciplines of classic cooking, are validated trademarks at Café Routier.
**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor