in Manhattan
R.C. Bruckner-Bock
Whether they vacation in Europe or in the USA, cost conscious travelers always
ask me to help steer them past tourist traps into restaurants that guarantee
special meals at affordable prices. These gourmands categorically avoid white
glove service and iced salad forks (theatrics designed to pad lofty dinner
checks), and star-chefs who produce foamy mélanges without identity
while making cameo appearances in their local kitchens as travel pause between
visiting their global empires.
These focused diners issue tall orders: they want personality of cuisine prepared
with quality ingredients by cooks known for consistency, a wine list that does
not intimidate, and an exciting menu that invites adventure but won’t scare
the kids. They look for bistro or ethnic comfort food prepared authentically,
and for places that allow ‘come dressed as you are’ at any time of
day or night, with no reservations needed. While under the nostalgic influence
of the holiday season, some folks seek French haute cuisine complete with impeccable
service in a setting of quiet elegance, where they can take the family for a
Parisian experience without destroying the holiday budget and were the children
are welcome.
Omitting familiar ratings format and to satisfy the demands of those planning to visit New York City during the Holiday season, the restaurants reviewed were carefully chosen for their exceptional Dollar value. I regard consistent excellence of the cuisine, and the ambiance reflecting the genre of the establishment. The websites listed accurately describe menus, prices and ambiance.
Le Périgord, 405 East 52nd St, ph 212-755-6244 *reservations
essential www.leperigord.com
Lunch prix fixe $32; Dinner prix fixe $65; Sunday Night Special $45;
Early dinner daily 5.30-6.30 pm
Visiting Le Périgord is a return to days when dining out was an event,
a titillating thrill like a first dance. Here, swathed in tranquil elegance,
one still finds French haute cuisine presented without hauteur as affordable
luxury. “Le Périgord features dishes that time forgot” say’s
the owner.
Le Buffet froid, any Parisian’s favorite first course, offers plentiful
choices of mouthwatering appetizers. Home-smoked salmon served with corn muffin,
sour cream and salmon caviar is as tasty as it is elegant; asparagus or artichoke
vinaigrette wakes up the taste buds while the vegetable tart accompanied by
a piquant butter sauce heightens the anticipation for entrées. Main
courses are dazzling examples of excellence achieved through purity. Lobster
with coriander broth, roasted duck with seasonal fruits or filet Wellington
or Périgourdine (truffle sauce) are classics no longer easily found.
Turbot with Comté cheese crust and champagne sauce,
or ‘Loup de Mer’, bass with country mustard sauce can yet be trumped
by roasted free range chicken in wine sauce
with morels and gratin Dauphinois potatoes. Devotees of veal kidneys and sweetbreads can
satisfy their cravings here.
The dessert cart carries agonizing temptations, prompting observant waiters
to suggest “a little bit of both perhaps?”, music to the ears of
children who are lucky enough to be entertained in this place were fairy tales
come true.
Café Fiorello, 1900 Broadway (63rd & 64th) ph
212-595-5330 *reservations recommended
www.cafefiorello.com
Hours: Mo-Fri 11.30 am – 12.30 am; Sat 10 am – 12.30 am; Sun 10
am to 11 pm;
For nearly 30 years Fiorello’s has been the gathering place for lovers of the performing arts. Located across Lincoln Center and open 7 days, the Café’s impressive display of roughly 50 varieties of antipasti guarantees decision-making agony. Tables crammed N.Y.-style between the warmth of wood paneling, brass and large windows through which one views sidewalk action, the elbow to elbow connections can not deter from the lusty Roman cuisine that is featured here. At Lincoln Center prices the ‘signature pizza’s should be ignored, they are better and more affordable on our shoreline at Alforno’s. Dinner plates average approx. $28, but I never get past the huge selection of truly superior antipasti and the richly satisfying desserts.
Brasserie Les Halles at 2 locations:
411 Park Ave. South (28th/29th) ph 212-679-4111 and
15 John Street (Bwy & Nassau near City Hall) ph 212-285-8585
www.LesHalles.net
Hours: 7.30am to midnight, 7 days
Since the closing of the famed Les Halles in Paris, this is absolutely THE brasserie of distinction. Their advertisement “menu for all tastes, all appetites and all budgets” has been verified for years upon years. It is essential to check the “events page” on their web-site before traveling into NYC; where else could one find wild boar turnovers or wood pigeon salad under the featured hunting season dinners or choucroute garnie, an Alsatian specialty known around the world. Sauerkraut steeped in Alsatian beer and wine comes with smoked pork loin, French bacon, sausages and boiled potatoes. When choucroute is featured under the ‘events’, there seems no end to different combinations of what is heaped upon the Kraut. Crawfish wrapped in puff pastry with Créole style tangy mustard sauce, hearty house made pâtés, a truly real Coq au Vin the traditional rooster marinated and cooked in red wine sitting with button mushrooms, pearl onions and smoky lardoons (that elusive French bacon), and steak tartar, the ‘raw’ Hamburger made with top-great beef are just a few of my favorite things. For the less adventurous diner the list of comfort foods prepared with expertise and quality ingredients is thrilling. Oven roasted fowl is succulent and all fish is taste of the ocean only, fresh and clean. The children will concur that the chicken sandwiches and baked macaroni can not be topped, nor can the cream puffs stuffed with vanilla ice cream, the chocolate mousse and if they have been really, really good children, maybe Santa will treat them to flambéed Bananas.
Carnegie Deli: 854 7th Ave & 55th ph 212-757-2245
hours: 6.30 am to 4.00am daily
www.carnegiedeli.com
In spite of several make over attempts, one to accommodate the filming of
Woody Allen’s Broadway Danny Rose, this 1937 Deli, located across the
street from Carnegie Hall remained New York rustic to the core. So has the
wait staff, but that’s New York grit for you. Tourists from around the
globe flocking to this legendary New York landmark were unsuccessful in turning
it into a ‘trap’. Some prices listed for a sandwich may seem steep,
but the weighty amount of meats stacked between two slices of rye have to be
secured with skewers not to fall apart and will provide lunch for two more
days. The awesome portions make a $3 surcharge for sharing an offer that should
be considered. Eating here is an experience that will leave indelible memories.
Allow for plenty of time to study a hugely versatile menu listing NY favorites,
traditional Jewish cuisine, and mouthwatering sandwich-combinations of meats
and cold cuts one could not previously imagine. Be sure to wear expandable
clothing, bring a huge appetite, a strong man to carry the weighty left-overs
and cash, as they still will not accept credit cards at the
Carnegie.
Happy Holidays!
$$$$ over $75; $$$ over $50; $$ over $25; $ under $25; $* exceptional value;