It’s a grill, it’s a restaurant, it’s a tavern, it’s a night club, and it is not superman but also the first ‘green’ restaurant established in CT., and a lot of fun.
The removal of the computer TV game that made Donovan’s her favorite
stop for dinner after any matinee performance drew harsh criticism from the
five year old young lady. Now at the age of ten she has long been persuaded
to forgiveness by the best VIRGIN Piña Colada served exactly to her
liking. That is what my granddaughter says.
Housed in an industrial red-brick building, this establishment could well be
situated in Liverpool or London, except that European pubs and taverns are
usually of less impressive size. One could wonder if the ambiance might suffer
in such cavernous expanse; not to worry! Well spaced tables napped in white
protect intimate conversation only interrupted by the casual warmth of friendly
wait staff. Sometimes their bonhomie let’s them forget to remove used
plates as they rush to please by bringing out the next course.
Downstairs is dominated by a huge bar lined with content regulars indulging
in superb drinks mixed by professionals and catching up on conversation interrupted
by yesterday’s ending of the happy hour or closing time. The view from
the elevated dining area includes the pleasantry of large windows facing a
landscaped parking area, making every table a window seat. On weekends, Donovan’s
nightclub, a lofty space under the extensive roof, features talented artists
from this area from 10 until closing time. The feeling throughout promotes
comfortable relaxation
.
The always reasonably priced Specials Menu of the
Day lists discoveries under unassuming names. A recent Tomato-Cheddar
soup was lively with balanced flavors of tangy cheddar tamed into creamy velvet
by ripe tomato sweetness, lovingly enhanced by a touch of finely minced vegetable
roux.
Potato Gnocchi dressed in sage butter were a triumph in simplicity, and sautéed
soft shell crab served over Angel hair pasta was delicately piquant in the
company of capers, artichokes and bits of fresh tomatoes. Reliably satisfying
and spiced with finesse is the crock of Liz’s Famous Chili at $ 5.95.
Salads (2.75-12.95), most all of them meal size portions, are assembled with imagination and appropriate dressings to complement the main ingredients of seafood, fowl or steak. There are four versions of Caesar: the classic, with grilled chicken, grilled flank steak and Cajun Shrimp. Set apart from the usual are grilled ‘Tequila Lime’ jumbo shrimp on mesclun leaves in a pineapple vinaigrette with avocado, baby tomatoes and corn, an interesting mix with a tropical touch. Sesame and pignoli nuts playing compliments to each other while featuring Tilapia Vera Cruz, a pine crusted filet atop young greens invigorated by cilantro vinaigrette and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.
Appetizers ($3.95-12.95) designed for large appetites range
from Chicken tenders that delight children to Buffalo wings served as one,
two or three dozen, as well as tasty editions of the otherwise familiar Nachos
and Quesadillas. Here, these South Western dishes are sparkling with zesty
ingredients that speak of close adherence to freshness.
Superior Pastas ($9.95-19.95) are represented by home made
Lobster Ravioli bathed in mascarpone cream with a hint of vanilla and homemade
Cavatelli Pomodoro served with basil and a sprinkling of Asiago cheese.
Burgers ($8.95- 10.95) range from a fanciful Surf n’Turf creation where melted Fontina gets married to sweet lobster via a tangy sauce rémoulade to the Cowbernet Burger, topped with apple wood bacon, smoked Cheddar and slathered with a wine reduction sauce.
Once, pizza ladled with too much pomodoro: a soggy center of the pie was the unfortunate result. This episode was quickly erased from memory by the best Cole slaw to be found anywhere nearby. Finely shaved crunchy cabbage mixed with julienne carrots is bound by a lively mayo-cream, a great side.
Sandwiches and Wraps ($7.95- 14.95) deserve special mention.
Much thought is given to the assemblage of components and selection of the
most complimenting breads. The accoutrements are always crisp with freshness
and the dressings express the chef’s whims. The ‘Nightmare on Main
Street’, my favorite, comes heaped with spicy Pastrami on toasted rye
with caramelized onions and Swiss melted over a slice of tomato. The only nightmare
I have is when I dream of having one while I am not near the restaurant.
All Entrees are served with house salad; steaks and chops
are grilled or sautéed as ordered. Double-cut pork chops ($16.95) are
kept juicy under Marsala demi-glace and sautéed shitake mushrooms dotted
with Prosciutto-crisps. In the company of sautéed spinach and old fashioned
creamy mashed potatoes; this dish won’t leave you wanting.
Be alerted that Donovan’s Oktoberfest will feature German
specialties throughout the month of October, a feast not to be missed!