This year, when more than the usual local restaurants advertised Oktoberfest specials, I began eating my way through their “German” dishes. With great disappointment I found that amongst the sparse selections offered, most could be identified as German only by name. Some were nothing more than commercial knackwurst or Frankfurters grilled with onions or a breaded veal scaloppini off the regular menu masquerading as “Wiener Schnitzel”. A Maalox or two became my usual dessert after these tasting jaunts.
But not here at Harbour! Here, a German-born chef with solid knowledge of traditional dishes “der Deutschen Küche” (German kitchen) delivers authentic German food prepared with skill. Her Grandmother’s recipes stem from slightly North of the Bavarian border but are authentic cuisine served throughout the land.
A chocolate colored band of pumpernickel snakes through the loaf of German style rye bread, giving it the stamina to support heaps of sweet butter, the decision making process of what to order, and several mugs of Oktoberfest beer on draft. Appetizers ($4.95-5.95) preceded by a courtesy dish of cucumber salad lead the parade. Coarsely graded potatoes fried to perfect crispness are the best Kartoffel Puffer (potato pancakes) I have had anywhere but home. Herring in sour cream followed the properly ‘al dente’ lentil soup in savory broth, and the Krautsuppe, a cabbage soup made from sauerkraut was the sweet-sour version as it is served in Hessen.
Entrees: ($12.95-16.95) come in portions
that can feed a thousand. Rouladen, a German version of Italian
Brasciola, are sheets of thinly sliced beef seasoned with mustard, rolled around
sliced pickle and onions and roasted in a rich sauce. These, like the subtly
spiced beef Gulasch in creamy paprika sauce are
served with Knödel, the bread dumpling that no sauced
German dish can be without. Sauerbraten, a marinated beef
roast and Chicken Fricassée are other traditional favorites.
Identified as authentic by its puffy crispy golden coat, the Wiener
Schnitzel is truly that. That winning dish can only be achieved by
special preparation and diligent spooning of hot fat over the top during the
sauté. There is a smoked pork chop called Kassler Rippchen and
an excellent preparation of Königsberger Klopse, a
unique dumpling made from ground veal, pork and beef (or just one of these)
mixed with roasted onions, eggs, a little bread, parsley, and a scraping of
anchovy filet. The mixture, shaped into balls, is then simmered in a piquant
sauce seasoned with lemon juice and capers. One can always tell if a cook has
talent and prepares with care by sampling soups and sauces. Marishka’s
German Oktoberfest menu prepared with love is a reflection of her knowledge,
energy and pride.
Desserts ($5.95) of Linzer Torte, Apfel Strudel and vanilla
layer cake with chocolate butter-cream and chocolate coating, baked at Dagmar’s,
are the sweet conclusion to the kitchen’s German tour
de force.
Forgive me for the following slightly abbreviated review of the year-round
menu:
Soups ($ 3.95 – 7.50) made fresh daily, include hardy
chili plain or with onions and cheddar and RI or NE clam chowders and lobster
bisque. Representing Appetizers ($ 4.95- 9.95) are crab cakes,
steamed mussels clams casino and Buffalo wings, all good and plentiful. Salads ($4.95-7.95)
will easily become a meal by adding grilled chicken breast, shrimp or salmon
to the chosen basics. Grilled, Cajun or teriyaki preparations offer yet another
choice. All crisp and fresh, the Asian salad tempts with a unique assemblage
of contra-taste sensations: greens, carrots and radishes face off with mandarin
oranges, red peppers and peanuts frolicking in Asian dressing. I liked it!
Everything from the Grill is served with French or sweet potato
fries, chips and slaw, and the cost depends on which add-ons are chosen with
the excellent 8 oz Burger ($6.95). The hot dog is one foot
long, I always wanted one of those, and the sweet Italian sausage comes on
a roll with tomato, peppers, onions and melted Provolone cheese. Sandwiches (5.95 – 15.95)
range from humble BLT and grilled cheese to a buttery lobster rolls stuffed
with chunky claw and knuckle meat, to Reuben and Pastrami under a nutty blanket
of melted Swiss. Crisp chicken is wrapped in soft tortillas and the Cubano
is a bold affair with roasted pork and turkey dressed with pickles, mustard
and melted Swiss. The California Fish Taco proves to be a combination of fried
fish, onion, tomato, some greens and spicy salsa dressing served in a tortilla
that really works. Fried seafood has been fresh at every tasting and can be
ordered Cajun style. Entrees ($ 12.95 – 18.95)
are identified as comfort food, and that they are. From meatloaf to Lasagna,
from chicken pot pie to liver with onion s and bacon, I have to confess that
I did not have a chance to try them all but I don’t think that there
will be any risk of dissatisfaction.
The owner’s motto is “comfort food for all tastes”, and I concur, it is.
**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor