The renaissance fortress of Ibiza casts a spell of bold majesty from high
above the blue Mediterranean. This islo-gem of the Baleares, where sparkling
crystals of ancient salt flats create the world’s most magnificent sunsets
and where brilliant fireworks illuminate D’Alt Vila, are modifiers that
can be transduced to describe Ibiza the restaurant in downtown New Haven. Their
website-philosophy states: “Ibiza is a very special Spanish
restaurant, where the traditional and the modern fuse; I emphatically
agree but must note that the philosophy and the chef’s resume are presented
with a humility that misleads by understating the creative passion and expertise
of a sensational kitchen.
Comfortable tables dressed in pristine white are framed by natural brick divided
by soaring columns opposite alabaster walls hung with brilliantly colored oils.
The gleaming wood of the Tapas bar snakes along a curved mural-wall painted
in earth-tones appropriately depicting happy diners. The high level skills
of the service brigade remind of Belle Époque dining. Moving with ‘seeing’ eyes
and quiet agility, their impeccable efficiency is noteworthy.
Medieval Ibiza Old Town represents Spanish tradition and San Antonio’s
high rise structures the modern. Spain’s gastronomy, deservedly famous
for aromatically enticing foods provides a never ending source of inspiration
to a kitchen where unbridled talent is at work. At Ibiza, Executive Chef Manuel
Romero embraces regional and traditional specialties, adapts some of Spain’s
famed Ferran Adria’s nouvelle ideas, and creates his signature
dishes using the best of the season. The fireworks from his kitchen, prepared
under the uncompromising high standards of classic haute cuisine, speak of
a passionate love for the craft and uncompromising quality. His cuisine dazzles
with brilliance in concept and preparation.
Enjoy the menu selection as a prelude of great things to come while sipping
Ibiza’s outstanding Sangria. Made with fresh fruits marinated in brandy
and triple sec and married to expertly chosen quality red or white wine, it
is a treat!
Some aperitivo para empesar (appetizers to get started) might be in
order now. Those are tiny Tapitas served before the appetizers. Walnut
size Carbales, blue cheese croquettes with chives, a minute ‘tortilla
omelet’ of potato, onions and peppers, and a sliver of buttery toast
resting on avocado purée topped with chorizo were taste explosions magnified
tenfold from the size of the tidbits.
The fresh anchovies are imported from Spain. Buttery Boquerones draped
over toast and dressed with avocado-cilantro purée are leading the parade
of Aperitivos ($10-13). The melt-in-your-mouth
anchovies drizzled with EVOO, a spritz of lemon juice and minced parsley are
simply exquisite. Croquetas de foie gras: small
globes of foie gras in crisp coating, each topped with a poached quail
egg dotted with a few grains of coarse sea salt are resting next to tufts of
mâche salad crossed with strips of smoked duck breast under a décor
of softly candied cumquat; an ingenious balancing act of textures and flavors. Galician
peasant soup: creamy tenderness of large Lima beans pays tribute to
succulent chicken mingling with Savoy cabbage and potatoes in a savory broth.
Chorizo and lardoons from Spanish bacon lend zest to this mélange. Subtle
woodland flavors of wild mushrooms and shredded oxtail lovingly become Risoto
de Rabo, a wondrous dish served with almond crusted sweet breads done
perfectly. If not on the menu, ask for Callos a la Vizcaina, it
is tripe. Perhaps the most snubbed offal in existence is turned into an ethereal
stew by creative imagination. Delicate, tender tripe, sliced chorizo, chickpeas,
and crisp Serrano ham find happiness in a fragrant broth the texture of velvet.
No wonder people will travel hours to enjoy it. Coca Mayorquin – a Nevat, goat
cheese cake is perfect puff pastry topped with sweet shrimp and
fresh anchovies of buttery texture; free of briny salt, it was plated with
finely diced watermelon, tomatoes and a décor of mesclun lettuce dressed
in saffron-infused mustard dressing, another masterful blending of contrasting
aromas. Brocheta are another awe inspiring
departure from the usual. Coriander- and Spanish-paprika-marinated
pork tenderloin medallions, skewered with slightly candied apricots wrapped
in smoked bacon, served with baked avocado and couscous of finely minced cauliflower
and fresh cucumber are exciting dining!
Guarniciones (Garnishes-Sides $8) can be patatas
asadas: roasted potato, Idiazabal pie (Basque sheep cheese) and
Piquillo pepper; Espáragos: grilled asparagus with
porcini mushrooms dressed in sherry vinaigrette; Espinacas a la Catalana: spinach,
sautéed in EVOO, pine nuts, and raisins or Repello y patatas:
sautéed Savoy cabbage, fingerling potatoes, smoked bacon and garlic.
Platos (Entrees $24 to $39). Bacalao is made
from slow cooked home made salt cod confit and served with
squid ink risotto, petite peas, diced squid; this favorite peasant dish of
the Mediterranean is bumped up to gourmet status and deservedly so. Grilled
sea scallops, Vieiras, their superb sweetness heightened
by a saffron-coconut milk sauce, come with garnish of corn flour cake, asparagus,
Piquillo peppers and grape tomatoes. They taste as pretty as they look. On
a recent visit, my guest, ready to shed tears of joy over his Canelones (roasted
eggplant crêpe with Manchego cheese over sautéed pepper, onions,
tomatoes and black olives) had to be arm-wrestled to fork over a few tastes. Broiled Chutelón
sin hueso is far above the cut of the customary rib eye steak.
Marrow-like richness intensified by the addition of grilled piquillo peppers,
and ajilis mojilis sauce (thick potato and red pepper sauce) sets
the contrasting tones. Cordero: rack of braised spring
lamb served with wild-mushroom ravioli and smoked rice vinegar mint sauce makes
this preparation a delightfully different lamb-experience.
Menú degustación, the Tasting Menu ($ 58pp,
appropriate wine $35 pp, served Mo thru Thu) is an outstanding value. If this
appears pricey to anyone, I’d like to point out that comparative excellence
at Per Se is advertised at $ 275.00, service included and they are not kidding!
Postres, desserts ($9- 10; assorted artisan cheeses
for two $17.75) can be a chocolate soufflé that borders
on debauchery. Resting on crumbled wafers resembling croquant, topped with
dulce-di-leche ice cream, this sensuous creation needs to be addressed with
reverence. Pastry Chef Castillo’s revolving creations can cause anxiety;
I always worry and without cause, that my favorites might be discontinued.
How could I possibly conclude dinner without his Spanish flan, the classic
crème caramel or ‘plain custard’? In company of poached
pear and lemon zest ice cream, this old time favorite becomes a new world experience,
nothing ‘plain’ about it. Chocolate con Churros,
mini-crullers sparkling with sugar crystals are served with a chocolate dipping
cream, the intensity of molten lava. Press tea, not tea bags, specialty coffees,
uncommonly fine selections of after dinner wines and drinks are fitting conclusions.
The understated sophistication of this restaurant reveals itself course by
course to those who consider serious dining as an intricate part of life’s
pleasures.
Under the baton of Maestro Juan Carlos Gonzalez and his tireless leadership
in pursuit of excellence, a dinner at Ibiza is a symphony that will keep playing
in your memory until you return for another faultless performance.