A gentle breeze caressing memories of al fresco dining in Venice with the
distant hue of illuminated refineries on the Via dei Petroli, is the ambiance
on the wrap-around deck at this institution of traditional and modern Italian
cuisine. Content diners sample specials from a ‘Goody menu’ or
raw bar offerings while watching shore birds bobbing in the waters.
Inside, well-spaced tables on two levels are helpless against rising decibels
of a happy clientele. Never mind!
Preparing their senses for culinary pleasures brought by cheerful staff, curious
guests test wines with interesting labels. Kris, Riff, Livio Felluga,
are robust Northern Italians. Extend your eating hours for the Tuscan Casanova
di Neri; that lover requires long breathing to reveal his complex personality!
By choice, I do not profile chefs or history. My job is to give an unbiased
factual accounting of the food. Today I break my rule because ‘Little
Eddie’ Varipapa has managed a brilliant continuance of ‘Big Eddie
Varipapa’s’ (his grandfather) passion for food and love of people.
[Clad in his red-hot apron ‘Big Eddie’ would emerge from his cucina
blurting: “I just made this, you’ll love it!” Chopped pigs
ears in a piquant dressing; garlicky squid steaks pounded into tender sheets,
a heaping bowl of white bait no larger than your pinky fried to a crunch were
some offerings. Mozzarella en Carozza’ (in carriage), dressed
with capers, toasted pignoli-nuts, anchovies and drizzled with au jus was not
just a toasted sandwich. Listed on a scribbled Goodies-Menu “for those
who know”, they were treasures.]
Today’s Leon’s Menu clearly reflects highly sophisticated preparation
skills and mastery of flavor-blends without compromising the personality of
a dish. What transcended from Leon’s on Washington Street is passion,
respect for tradition and lively creativity.
A ‘for-those-who-know-appetizer’ on a recent Goody-Menu was roasted
squab with port-wine soaked Bing-cherry compote, sweetness contrasted by charred
bunching onions. A flawless preparation of the squab surely evoked a sprinkling
of Big Eddie’s lacrima felice from heaven.
Cockles Portuguese, (sometimes Napolitano) were not netted from the forbidden
waters of the Canale Grande. This lusty stew of beans, beefy roasted Piquillo’s,
and peppery chorizo sausage simmers in tomato-saffron broth, highlighting Appetizers ($10.95-12.95). Baked
in cognac cream and sautéed leeks are Oysters alla
Audi. Plumpness huddles under a sprinkling of Grana Padano
(‘grainy’ cheese from the Pianura Padana valley) in company of
smoky bacon bits and red pepper. Choosing the subtle sweetness of Grana the
risotto-cheese over saltier Parmigiano is testimony to a chef’s culinary
wisdom.
Another stunner masquerades as Seafood Salad. The mélange
of resilient shrimp poached tender, sweet baby-calamari and buttery scallops
is tossed with chunky celery and peppers, fresh herbs, fine olive oil and a
hint of citrus; this extravaganza should be elevated to category
Outstanding!
There will be decision making agony between the Soups (6.95-7.95) Seafood
bisque has shrimp, scallops and crab bathing in creamy luxury with sherry accent.
Roasted butternut squash tempts with characteristic subtlety with cream.
Salads (7.95-12.95) Here Parmigiano-Reggiano gives crisp Caesar character.
Roasted beets over arugula benefit from smoked almonds and fig-balsamic vinaigrette.
Spinach salad thankfully comes without hardboiled egg but with red onion, apple-wood
bacon and blue cheese in citrus dressing; the blackberries add only snob-appeal.
Enter the Pasta (17.95-24.95) dilemma: baked ricotta and mozzarella ‘Ziti
Phyllis’ named in honor of Nana; Orecchiette, the ‘little ears’ with
broccoli rabe and a fennel sausage you always dreamed about or Panamanian shrimp
with asparagus sautéed with wild mushrooms, herbs and garlic on fettuccini.
Pasta often is seasonal and can challenge a cook’s creativity more than
any other course. ‘Prima vera’ after springtime vegetables
may change to ‘cacciatore’, (hunter style) when
mushrooms are in season.
ENTREES: ($17.95 – 38.95) Seafood at Leon’s is
colorful and lively. Plating is visually beautiful, spices and herbs are skillfully
balanced to support the star performer in each plate. An artist’s eye
assembles green and white asparagus, cream colored shaved finocchio with the
pink of roasted wild Salmon; accented with Sicilian blood oranges this dish
is as beautiful as it is tasty. Persillade (chopped parsley and garlic)
is the artist’s signature to Chilean Sea Bass, an impressionist piece
of art. Among the stars is Zuppa di Pesce. A half lobster, jumbo shrimp, little
necks, wild mussels, tender calamari, sweet sea scallops and Alaskan king crab
make this opulent ‘fish soup’ an impressive production. However,
it won’t outpoint Big Eddie’s Frito Misto of decades ago,
a variety of panfried fishes unseen anywhere since. Maybe this traditional
classic might resurface for the holidays?
Excellent veal prepared ‘Tosca’ in egg-batter, sautéed golden
comes with artichoke hearts and a hint of lemon in buttery wine sauce. As Pagliacci
a cutlet is layered with escarole, eggplant Parmigiano and mozzarella, ladled
with marinara sauce and baked until crisp on top. It’s one of my favorites!
Gypsy Chicken, made with bone-in pieces under grandpapas hands has given way
to boneless tenderloin to accommodate some customers. Fennel sausage and cherry
peppers, lightly caramelized onion and crisped (sometimes not so crisp) potatoes
will please any Gypsy. Strip steak, paired with garlicky mashed potatoes and
a scattering of Chanterelles is robust yet tender and Filet Mignon lovers will
flip over foie gras demi glace and nutty parsnip puree.
Typical Italian Desserts ($7.50) are of fine quality. Cannoli
with impastata filling (low moisture ricotta cream) and Belgian chocolate
retain their crispness. ‘Mousse Cappuccino’ made from ultra rich
and smoky Valhrona chocolate from the Rhône valley thrilled the kid who
ordered chocolate ‘Mouse’, and the Tiramisu small torta,
assembled with espresso flavored ladyfingers and mascarpone is delightful in
chocolate coating.
Leon’s, a place for those who know!