An Invitation to Dinner by R.C. Bruckner-Bock

An Invitation to Dinner

by
R.C. Bruckner-Bock

SAGE American Grill, a WISE choice for all seasons
129 West Main Chester
860-526-9898
www.sageamerican.com

Cuisine **
Service ***
Ambiance **
Price Range $$
Wine Menu: sensible selections compliment the food; over 30 wines by the glass are global
choices from California, Chile, Italy or France at $ 7.00

Cross the covered foot-bridge spanning Pattaconk brook and step into history. The 1800’s grist mill morphed into a factory for wooden skate-blades, then horse hair brushes, a place for welding, and finally in the 1960’s into a succession of restaurants.

An overture of water-music thunders from the falls. Through lattice work the mind’s eye will see a waterwheel no longer there. Brightly colored flower pots framing small courtyards invite to intimate al fresco dining during the warm season. Winter slows the brook to a whisper beneath a sparkling dome of ice reflecting the golden glow of the beckoning hearth inside.

Enjoy happy-hour hospitality offerings while sipping cocktails or fashion Martinis ($5.95-9.40) in the living-room-ambiance bar where wingback chairs and love seats relieve stress, and boulders tumbling through the wall attest that this place was built on granite.

Service is always considerate and warm. The staff’s display of graceful speed over stairs from kitchen to tables deserves Olympic silver, their good humor Olympic gold.

The kitchen’s performance is as predictable as the Pattaconk’s path. Appetizers ($5.95-8.95) are buttery mini-lobster rolls, splashed with sherry, mellow baked brie scattered with toasted almonds and grape décor, or chili dusted grilled chicken skewers with blue-cheese dip. Shrimp cocktail, fried calamari (here coated with piquant spices) and steamed mussels are other offerings familiar to the shore line. Skip Sage’s signature dish: traces of crab, cooked-to-death spinach, and stringy artichoke hearts are fused into a bread bowl with chalky cream cheese paste. This John Hancock should swiftly be erased!

Invariably good soups served in bowl sized pewter kettles ($4.95 -7.95) are dill herbed clam chowder, brandy spiked velvety lobster bisque and onion soup.

House salad, a summer refresher of iceberg wedge paired with cubed tomatoes, bathed in ranch dressing should look for a new mate in winter. The crisp Caesar in tangy dressing is excellent with or without anchovies, with grilled chicken added ($12.95) it can become a meal.

Utilizing Angus chuck for hamburgers and prime rib on ciabatta bread for dinner sandwiches ($9.95-18.95) invites casual dining in the bar.

Consistent in preparation are New Zealand rack of lamb, sirloin steaks and assorted filets Mignon (($19.95-38.95). A large cut Prime rib, bone in, always prepared as ordered easily serves two. BBQ spiced sirloin comes grilled or prepared Teriyaki and zapped with ginger. Sizzlers are NY Strip Portobello and peppered filet Mignon with brandy herb-butter or with caramelized onions in a brandy demi-glace.

Fish of the day, selected for freshness and offered at market price is prepared ‘chef’s whim’. From the variety of shrimp dishes offered, one that makes me think about the tropics is an utterly crisp production of coconut shrimp served with raspberry preserves and cocktail sauce.

Additions ($2.50-5.25) of sautéed garlicky button mushrooms, mashed Yukon or sweet potatoes, a baked Russet or fries are without flaw. Asparagus and broccoli, both dressed with lemon sauce are done perfect; creamed spinach was lackluster, dry and bitter. Desserts ($3.95-6.50) are represented by vanilla-bean crème Brûlée, a homey all American cinnamon apple crisp, and a bittersweet Belgian chocolate-mousse. The ‘Mood Pie’ is layered temptation atop an Oreo cookie crust; the tiers of peanut butter, Butterfinger Crunch ice cream and fudge are drizzled with Belgian chocolate sauce, and garnished with whipped cream and salted peanuts. It’s awesome!

If this does not bring about utter contentment, indulge in another perfect libation from the bar for after dinner relaxation before crossing the bridge once more, leaving behind the charm of yore to be revisited.

**** Extraordinary; *** Excellent; **Very Good; *Good; - Poor
$$$$ over $75; $$$ over $50; $$ over $25; $ under $25; $* exceptional value;